KL – 19th to 21st July

So I left the cool sanctuary of the Cameron Highlands, and my bus dropped me off in pretty much the opposite place – KL. Or to you laymens, Kuala Lumpur. But everyone, travellers and locals, call it KL. My first thought on getting off the bus – god I need to get out of the city.

However the city really grew on me across my few days there.

I once again opted to stay near the KL equivalent of Little India which was also in close proximity to Chinatown. I may have been thinking with my stomach there but it was a tasty decision.

I spent my few days in KL exploring bits of the city, seeing some of the obvious must sees and missing some obvious ones too. One of my first stops was the national museum to learn about the history of Malaysia. I’ve already yapped on about the colonial history and the trade winds etc so wont reiterate. However I did learn the name Kuala Lumpur translates to Muddy Estuary and was originally settled as a silver mine. 

Outside the museum doing my best impression of the train (I was in a weird mood and am on the left)

While in the touristy part of town I took a stroll around the botanical gardens and visited their mini Stonehenge which is a recreation of our one (part of the planetarium), it also had a mini-recreation of the sundials I saw in Jaipur, India – although once you’ve seen the biggest sundial in the world it’s hard to be impressed… 

The buildings in KL were very impressive – both old and new.  The modern skyscrapers are stylish, mixed with colonial style buildings, then Chinese styles as well – a real melting pot, which sums up Malaysia really. One building that was particularly interesting history wise was the old British administrative centre. It was built by the British which stunned me as it was built in the Islamic style with the Qubbas and all. It surprised me as throughout India the British stuck to harsh european styles despite the climate and sticking out like a sore thumb. But the building was beautiful – and I believe famously where the first Malaysian leader declared independence at some point in the 20th century. As always Hugo is here to bring you the hard facts.

On my second day (I think) I ventured to a semi-nearby breakfast place. I said hi to the waiter type guy, and he sat me down and asked what I’d like. I looked up at the menu but before I’d had time to read anything – he ordered me a Roti Special. I added a teh tarik (milk tea) and the day was off to a flying start. The roti special turned out to be a pile of torn up roti, two eggs (very runny) covered in curry and a dollop of nasi lemak chilli sauce on the side.

I’m tucking in to what was a delicious brekkie, when I hear a another british accent behind me. The waiter takes her order and sits her opposite me (what a hero). I give her a yorkshire ‘morning’ and we chatted away over a couple of cuppas. She was doing a year’s study in Korea and just popped across to Malaysia for an explore (with nothing but a rucksack of stuff which did impress me quite a lot). I would say ‘nice life for some’ but I haven’t got a leg to stand on there. Anyway turns out Izzy is from Twickenham of all places and goes to Bristol uni (when not in Seoul) – small world. 

I had one bit of KL specific admin which I tackled on my final morning, which was to give my biometrics to the Canadian embassy – spoilers for what lies ahead, or what may lie ahead – my plans change a lot. With that done, I decided to visit the nearby Batu Caves. 50% because they are a must see of KL apparently, but also 50% as an excuse to try out KL’s public transport – which was excellent.

I hopped on the train which took me right to the caves. Once there I was greeted by the usual touristy monstrosity – people selling shit, and people trying to get you to pose for a photo with a bird or a snake or whatever – I was also greeted by a giant blue statue. I initially thought this fierce looking geezer was Vishnu but it turned out to be Hanuman (a devotee of Vishnu).

Approaching the caves themselves, there was a huge set of brightly coloured steps preceded with a decorative gateway with all the intricate details that come with Hindu temples. Next to the tower of steps was the huger golden statue of Murugan. I didn’t know much about Murugan, or well I didn’t even know off her at the time. But it turns out she is a) the daughter of Shiva and Privata and therefore the brother of Ganesh (the elephant head guy from a previous story) – none of which is relevant, b) the god of victory and war – also not relevant, and c) also known as the deity of the Tamils – which is relevant as the founder of the caves (as a religious site) was a Tamil and now Tamils pilgrimage to the site year round and at specific festivals.

I climbed the steps and managed to avoid any altercations with the monkeys who seemingly out-numbered the tourists. The other tourists were throwing nuts for the monkeys which is how I’ve learnt monkeys are pretty terrible at catching – at least these ones were. They didn’t put in much effort but their limp attempts were almost always unsuccessful. Once in the caves the smell of guava was heavy in the air (which the caves have been used to collect predating the religious site). Inside there was another cool temple but more impressive was the height of the ceilings and then through the cave it opened up to a natural courtyard (I’m sure there is a geological name for those but whatever) – I stood in the middle and watched individual drips drop from the mossy rocks as they plummeted to the ground. Obviously I was hoping one would hit someone but most people were too savvy. Also there were loads of chickens around which I couldn’t really understand – but didn’t ask about. 

Then it was time for me to leave KL. Fully in the swing of not planning, I just turned up at KL’s mammoth airport-like bus station and asked for the next bus to Malacca. Well I used the ticket machine but again whatever. I have about an hour to kill before my bus, so I set out in search of food. I find a fancy looking but very affordable place, but being cheap, I decide to head down to the food court instead. And who do I spot, it’s Izzy again! I grabbed some food and it turns out we were both on our way to Malacca. We arrange to meet up in the evening and then get our separate buses there.