Kampot – Phnom Penh – Siem Riep – 10th to the 15th

Leaving the islands we had a decision to make. Steve needed to be back in Bangkok in just a few days – perhaps four. We’re on a lovely beach off the coast of one country across.

Not overly fazed we decided we had time for one more stop before Steve hightails across Asia.

After our ferry bus combo we arrived for two nights one day in Kampot. Really not enough time to get under the skin of the place, but the surface was appealing. Night one, we found an outstanding veggie restaurant called Simple Things. After ordering we grabbed one of their chess sets and got in a quick game. 

I think Steve won, which was usual for us.

I ordered this huge plate of wholesome goodness and a pita bread on the side – my plan was to construct a wrap then eat the pickings after. It was stunning and Steve’s tofu wrap also looked, and reportedly was, good. It was all in the name as well, just simple food. All in all, a truly nourishing evening.

Now I’ve mentioned chess… let me tell you the story of the 

The Cambodian Gambit

Early into travelling with Steve, we’re sat at the back of the minivan on a rather lengthy journey. Steve turns to me and asks “you fancy a game of chess?”

“Yes” I say, accepting the gambit. 

This turned into quite a few games over the couple of weeks we had together. Predominantly Steve won, but there were some big upsets. 

It was game one or two in the back of the van, I’m quickly down a couple of pieces and feeling the pressure of Steve’s attack. It feels like I’m getting walked round the board into the corner; Steve’s queen acting as his trusty sheepdog. I’m circling the drain. Steve goes to put another nail in my coffin moving his queen even closer. However, we hit a pothole and he moved his queen one square across, and I took it with my knight. I obviously would have let Steve take it back but there’s none of that on the app.

So the game goes on, Steve’s attack ruined I come out on the attack. While I sprung quickly, it was met with rapid defence. A very tense few moves went by. But quickly I was once again being pushed around by Steve’s attack.

The brutal war continues, and more pieces are lost on both sides. We finally reach the end where I’m left with my queen and king, Steve is chasing my king with his several remaining pieces. Once again I’m on the run, this time retreating my king to his side of the board – towards his king, but away from his rooks. It’s all over, Steve is perhaps 1 or 2 moves away from checkmating me. With my king facing his king practically; touching each other. It’s my move and out of nowhere I slide my queen between the kings, check mating Steve. Truly against the run of play, but so sweet.

You could visibly see Steve’s whole world collapse around him through his face. A man staring into the abyss of losing to a pothole.

Anyway, our second night in Kampot happened to be my birthday. I fancied a bit of an adventure so we rented a scooter and set off to take it up the nearby mountains. We were approaching the start of the hill climb, over the top of the mountain up-a-head we saw huge rain clouds. We stop and have the conversation about turning around or not. But you kinda have to check don’t you? Like maybe it’s not raining up there. Needless to say it was tipping it down and once we got to the worst of it we promptly turned around. Oh and at one point we were driving through some of the thickest fog I’d ever seen!

After that we weren’t deterred, and headed back into town and out the other side to reach the pepper plantations which they give free tours of. Our route there started on good tarmac and quick descended onto dirt roads. But again, that’s not gonna stop us. After maybe 10km on the bumpy we arrive – about 5 mins after they closed. Whoops.

So not the most successful day trip but good fun for sure. 

That evening Steve took me out for dinner and drinks. Obviously we went back to Simple Things, this time with a little group from the hostel. After dinner we found a rooftop bar with a live band, charging an extortionate $1 a can. It was a stunning evening, a beautiful birthday and just a kinda perfect night. I felt very pampered by Steve <3

While there was more to explore in Kampot, we (the royal we) had a flight to catch. We returned to Phnom Penh, from here Steve flies back to Bangkok for his flight and I figure out whatever my plan is going forward. The reality of having to make my own plans sunk back in.

I must say, saying goodbye to Steve was emotional. Having to hold back the tuktuk tears even. Because having Steve was a breath of fresh air. Air from home as well. Steve and I’s three weeks were brilliant. Pretty much doing a whole Cambodia tour! From ancient grand temples, to a few beers, to chilling on the beach.. To use one of his phrases ‘a laugh a minute.’ Oh! I haven’t even mentioned Steve’s slip yet!

This was perhaps the worst stack of all time. After the ferry from Koh Rong Samloem we were in the port town on the mainland. Clearly Steve had become over-acustled with island living and opted for the sliders. We were hunting for some lunch while waiting for the bus. Steve’s navigating and we’re walking up the hill. Across a good half of the road there’s a shallow stream of water coming from uphill. I walk around, to be fair it wasn’t on my side of the road. Steve thinks nothing of the stream and steps into it. his foot lands and instead of stopping it glides forwards, Steve’s torso follows. His grippless slider has been his undoing. Steve lurches trying to recover and avoid plummeting into the centimetre of green water beneath him. The arms start going, and his second foot is now also in the stream. For a brief second I think he saves it. But after a final short sprint on the spot, Steve sort of collapses, falling bit by bit. Finally ending up, face down completely lying in the water – face included. 

He gets up. I’m trying not to wet myself laughing. Holding back a tidal wave of laughter, but by no means all of it. Then Steve’s just standing there – processing. Deep in thought, he then drops his phone in the stream as well. That also landed face down – but somehow with more dignity than Steve managed. The phone was fine. Steve eventually walked it off.

Writing that has taken me a good 30 minutes, just because I’ve been laughing so much. I’m also currently on a Thai sleeper train trying and failing to laugh silently.

Okay, so yes our time with Steve is over sadly. There will be more guests, however none so distinguished.

Without wanting to sound insincere. Moving on. The blog is a good month behind already.

Second time here in Phnom Penh for us. [I still can’t spell it even writing now]

So we said goodbye to Steve and I’d formed my plan but needed to do some prep/admin for it in the city. Once I’d done that I ended up having a bit of an adventure with two midwives I met in the hostel. Amy and Charlie. They were waiting around for their nightbus and I was waiting around until my bus the next morning. So we ended up going to the SEA Games, which just happened to be hosted in Phnom Penh, just for something to do. Basically, the olympics but just for SE Asia. They’d heard you could just turn up and you don’t need a ticket. So we did. The girls wanted to see the volleyball which I was fine with. Within about 20 mins of deciding to go we were inside with seats and waiting for the game to start. It was Thailand vs the Philippines. We decided to support the Philippines as Charlie and Amy had just come from there. Within maybe 5 points I was hooked. Engrossed in the points, but also the atmosphere. I didn’t expect the volleyball fans to be so diehard. They had drums, they knew chants. It was intense, but in a good way. 

In the end Thailand won 3 games to nothing.

My friends left for their bus, I almost left with them, but I decided to stay. I had a bit of time before the next event so grabbed dinner at the street food court outside the stadium. On my return I grabbed some popcorn and headed for the main stadium for the footie semi-final! I went to climb the stairs up the outside ringed bank holding the seating. It turns out I did need a ticket for this, they were free but you needed one. Before I’d even really understood all this, someone just handed me one and walked away. And I was in! This game was Thailand vs Myanmar. I thought Myanmar needed some support, so Myanmar was my team. Thailand won 3 – 1.

I’m not gonna accuse any nation of doping, but from what I gather Thailand are the Russia of SEA sporting… Baseless but whatever.

With a very successful revisit of Phnom Penh complete, my journey took me north. Returning briefly to Siem Reap (the home of Angkor Wat) but only as a stop over. I actually bumped into Luke and Ems from Koh Rong and Sanlomen. I just sat down in a Mexican restaurant, and from the back of the restaurant I just hear a “Hugo??” I turn and they’re there – which was really nice. I joined them and their friends, one of whom was on the same journey as me, so the next day we set off from the hostel the following morning. Me and my new friend, Just.

Our next bus took us further north once again, until we reached the border with Laos. At this point I’ve crossed a fair few land borders, so I thought I kinda knew the vibe. But this one was very weird. Firstly, it was deserted. Our group was maybe 6 people, and other than staff, that was it. No traffic, no cargo, no trade. It must all take a different route, but it was weird crossing such a huge border crossing complex – without any crowds.

On both sides of this border there was a ‘stamping fee’ which translates from Cambodian and Lao as a bribe. $1usd each side, so not the end of the world. With the bribes paid and my passport stamped it was time for country number 11 on this trip – Laos.

From what I’ve gathered where Thailand leads the way on development in SEA, Laos doesn’t. However, that’s part of the appeal for me.

So basically, it was a lot of travelling over a few days. With a really lovely stop over in Kampot. And now the journey opens to a new chapter. Laos awaits.

Miss you Steve xx