Jordan – Amman, Petra, Wadi Rum, Aqaba, Amman – 21st Feb to 3rd March

We’re not in Europe anymore. That’s for sure.

I arrived in Jordan without many expectations. I knew I wanted to see Petra and spend some time in the desert, but that was about it.

I initially started this blog with a moan about predatory tourist practices, but I’ve taken that out. While the moan was therapeutic it’s not that interesting or unique to Jordan. Not to mention this entry is fairly / very long. However, if anyone is coming to Jordan let me know and I’ll share some tips. Now, returning to your regular broadcasting…

While the European leg of the trip was fairly solitary with the odd companion here and there, my time in Jordan has been filled with people. From as early as the Airport companions presented themselves. I’ll introduce a few of them as we go along.

To start however – Jordan in a lot of ways feels like the most foreign country I’ve ever been to. For all you Dune fans out there, I was like Paul Atreides arriving on arid Arrakis from his lush oceanic homeworld of Caladan for the first time.

Amman, the capital and where I started my trip, is known as the city of seven mountains (or steep hills really). I’ve never seen a city like it; an urban sprawl set over these rolling hills effectively in the desert. Anywhere you look you just see more city further and further into the distance. To use another sci-fi reference, it was like a mix between Tatoween and Coruscant.

As you would expect, the stall lined streets were bustling all day – selling pretty much everything and anything (all of the time). The grid locked streets with horns blaring were much like Wood Green but somehow more chaotic. The market was even busier, selling food stuffs both foreign and familiar. I’ve never seen spices in such great quantities – huge sacks of everything from cinnamon to bay leaves. Something close to what I imagine a 16th century European empire’s wet dream would be.

Of course, with Amman being less than 5000 miles from Italy it had its share of roman ruins – a very impressive amphitheatre and more modest odeon. I really just can’t escape the romans.

My final note on Amman is I met a couple of German students, Julian and Sam. We explored a bit together, but I’ll come back to these two. 

Following Amman the time was upon me to visit the great ancient city Petra. The first day I explored with Albert (a guy from Indonesia) who I met at the airport. Albert then also introduced me to Dom who I toured Petra with the second day.

I’m finding Petra hard to describe, I will do some but I think the pictures will do more than I can. Instead I’ll mainly share some interesting tidbits. But as far as impressive entrances go, Petra takes the prize. You enter through a 1.2km parting in the red sandstone called the Siq. This ravine-like entrance eventually opens up to the Treasury – the first and most iconic sites in Petra. 

The city was home to the Nabataens (one of the Bedouin tribes) who developed the city into a major trading hub from 300bc. Although the site was inhabited as early as 7000bc.

Building a city in the desert does present one obvious challenge – water. And this is where I think Petra is most impressive. These ancient people built miles of pipes connecting the city to the nearest spring around 5 miles away. The remains of these can be seen flanking the pathway of the Siq. Not only that, the other issue they had, and there is some irony here, was flooding. When it rains in Jordan it really rains apparently, and the mountains funnel the water into the city. So alongside pipes getting the water in, they build gullies and dams to control the water.

Of course eventually the Romans came, who the Nabataens made a truce with in exchange for 300 silver talents (just shy of 10 tonnes of silver). The Romans then came back less than 10 years later and annexed the Nabataens – kinda a dick move if you ask me. Later Petra converts to Christianity in the Byzantine era, and then much later converts to Islam with the arrival of Muslim arabs.

Throughout its history, Petra has been a melting pot of cultures and religions. Which makes its history and its architecture fascinating. Albert, who was my resident column expert, talked me through at great length the various columns on show and the history behind them. It’s also an exciting and great honor to introduce Albert as the first guest speaker on the blog to share some of his insight; “Yep, that’s a column.” Thanks Albert.

I’ll conclude my section on Petra with one final story. At the end of the first day, Albert and I were searching for the ‘place of high sacrifice’ – which was on one of the side routes. Not knowing exactly where we were, we climbed some steps ascending the mountain hoping to find it. Eventually we did, and in typical Nabataen fashion the sacrifice spot came equipped with hydraulic engineering to channel the blood appropriately down the mountain. We also found a lovely tea house, the Bedouin bloke running the place offered us some free tea which we enjoyed with a German chap as the day drew to a close and the sun set over Petra. Close to the end of sunset the Bedouin tea house ‘owner’ said he’d take us down. So, and photos are included here, I had a surreal moment walking out of Petra along with a Bedouin in his traditional cloak, Albert, the German guy, and a dog and donkey who led the party.

With Petra ticked, I then headed further south to Wadi Rum – the heart of Jordan’s desert.

My bus dropped me at the Wadi Rum visitor centre, 5 miles away from where I was being picked up by my camp. And I had a bit of a moment here. There were taxis offering to take me for 10 JD (maybe £12), but that’s a 500% markup and only a 10 minute drive. So with my rucksack and much to the annoyance of the taxis I hiked it. Through the desert at night (sorry mum). I was quite stiff the next day, maybe very stiff even. But so worth it to stick it to the people trying to rip tourists off. And actually a lovely experience walking under the stars.

Once I arrived at the pick up point, a Bedouin met me and I hopped into his truck. About 5 minutes into driving deeping through the desert I did think I probably should have checked who he was before getting in. Then when his two additional brothers also got it I started to worry a bit more, but by around 15 minutes of driving further into the desert I relaxed because what’s the point in taking me further out to rob me. Anyway I made it to camp safely.

Once at the camp I joined dinner which was underway. It was someone’s birthday so there was cake and I got chatting to an american guy working for US aid. He gave me some interesting insight into Jordan’s water shortage. In short they only have ⅔ the supply needed for their population. As a result water is only turned on at certain times throughout the day/week. A new desalination plant is under-construction but how unlucky is this, Jordan doesn’t have any oil! Despite neighboring some of the most oil rich countries. Their best energy source is solar which they absolutely have the climate for. However, in a twisted fate, the easiest way to clean the sand from solar panels is with water…

After a good night’s sleep in my tent (under 3 of the thickest blankets ever) I got my first proper look at the desert, and it is stunning. Seas of red and yellow sand broken up by towering cliffs of rock. Around 9am Omar (one of the Bedouin working in the camp) took me out in the jeep for a day tour of the desert. The first thing Omar did was to decide Hugo was too hard and he re-christen me with my desert name – Ali (this name really stuck in Jordan. I got to see all of the desert sites, including; Lawrence’s house (as in Lawrence of Arabia), early cave cravings, the mushroom rock, and a couple of rock bridges. When we stopped for lunch and Omar unrolled the blanket I was expecting a sandwich and a bag of crisps. But to my surprise he dug a hole, placed three large rocks around it and made a fire. He then cooked up this beautiful tomato, onion, pepper thing. Then we napped through the hottest part of the day which was also pretty great.

I also made an obligatory rock tower. Well actually I got carried away and made three. My first dabble was unimpressive, the second complapsed mid-construction, however by the third I had mastered the art. I birthed my magnum opus (of rock towers at least). It towered about the mere piles of rocks that surrounded it. However its magnificence was not limited to height, but its design with a double-twin pilar structure was simply revolutionary in its field. See when it comes to rock towers amateurs talk about construction, professionals talk about rock selection.

Later at one point we pulled up and he told me to walk through this valley for a great view. So I started walking through the valley. Walking alone with my thoughts through the deep desert was an unusual experience. However one that didn’t last long, I crested one of the many dunes and see a tour group sitting stopped for lunch. I continue approaching and see a couple of youngish westerners. I get a bit closer and its Julian and Sam from Amman! It was unbelievable! So I joined them and we had some tea – good times. Following this we went to one of the larger sand slopes and sand-boarded(?) down it. I can confirm snow is better.

I should add I was somewhat amazed this jeep continued to work throughout the day. He’d turn the ignition and engine would gurgle and grumble. He’d turn it again and the same. Mostly by the third attempt the engine would start. It all added to the fun of the day. On this topic, at one point we stopped next to another jeep, Omar took a plastic bottle and pumped some of his petrol (squeezing the bottle to create suction) into his mate’s jeep – which I thought was funny.

We ended the day watching the sunset, where we joined (or maybe crashed) a couple doing the same (in fairness our guides knew each other). With some more tea, a cake and some quick photos it was time to leave the desert.

All in all Omar and I had a lovely day. He was just a really great guy and raced me to the visitor centre to catch my bus – which I missed.

One final thought on the desert. Initially it appears competently devoid of life, a baron anvil for the sun to beat down on. But actually its full of life. Okay well not full of life, but life manages. Plants, insects and birds were all widespread, and larger animals like camels were about (a really majestic animal in the wild). Then nearer the mountains where the rain runs down, life thrives.

Later that night I reached the very south of Jordan at Aqaba (on the Red Sea). I meant to stay for one night but ended up staying for four, largely because the hostel I was staying at was great fun and very chilled. The hostel owner took a liking to me (he also called me Ali) and took us out on various little trips around town. We visited the Saudi border, as well as the beach a couple of times, and the luxury compound where the King parks his yacht. At the beach I did try to part the (red) sea but to no avail sadly. The hostel owner actually offered me a job as well, which was somewhat tempting but I don’t think weeks more of falafel is sustainable for me. 

I also took a day to scuba dive on the reefs which Aqaba is famed for. I don’t have a Padi certificate but that didn’t seem to be a problem (in fact the center’s sign read “you don’t even need to know how to swim”). After a hasty 5 minute briefing on the beach we were ready to go. It was the first time I’d dived not from a boat and instead just walking into the water. Now with the heavy gear and flippers walking is not easy. But well worth it. I did fuck up slightly by not wearing contacts that day (whoops). So I ended up getting a bit closer to the fish and the coral than the instructors would have liked but it still looked incredible. Under the sea the amount of life was a complete contrast to the land, where the desert is arid where you have to look for life, the corals are full of it.

With my time in Aqaba over, I took the 5 hr bus back to Amman. This bus was more uncomfortable than usual as I was sitting next to what most have been the fattest man on the Arabian Peninsula. I’m talking about two stomachs, one above and one below his belt line. Thankfully I survived.

Tomorrow I catch my second flight, heading, of course, further east.