Georgetown – 12th to the 14th July

After another trip on the night ferry, and another plate of scrams in Surat Thani, I boarded a bus heading south towards the Thai border. And after another successful land crossing I found myself in the land of the Malays. First stop George Town. As usual I didn’t really know what to expect in Malaysia – the main thing I knew about the country was I could get to Indonesia through it (which was my plan).

As much as I didn’t have expectations Malaysia exceeded them regularly. Some of the loveliest people, some astonishing food, and incredible history.

Malaysia is and has been hugely important geo-politically in the Indochina region for thousands of years – largely as it sits centrally between India and China making it a crucial sea route. In years gone by all Indochina trade has been required to stop in Malaysia and wait for the trade winds to blow in their desired direction. Indeed still to do this day, a staggering percentage of global trade transits through the strait of Malacca.

Resulting the huge Chinese and Indian influences are obvious. Despite being more recently colonised by (roughly in order) the Portuguese, the Dutch, the British, the Japanese, and then the British again, their influences are more surface level. Admittedly there is a lot of colonial architecture, however the culture and people are very Indochinese if that’s a  term. Not to mention the food – my god – this might be the best food in the world. They do curry better than the Indians (see Roti Canai) and then have these more Chinese influenced Malay dishes (see Nasi Lemak).

Georgetown itself was originally a British settlement, and an important trading post on the strait of Malacca. Seen as a good location as it was off the mainland on an Island. Its old town is full of the colonial architecture, but is now also full of not so colonial sky-scrappers. There were a few sights I wanted to see in town, the first of which was Fort Cornwallis. I arrived at the fort at 10am only to find out my ticket came with either a free water or a free beer. So I toured the fort with my beer in hand – getting some judgemental looks from those who opted for the water. The fort was a cool sight, but nothing too special. Despite changing hands many times, notably between the British and the Japanese, it didn’t see a single battle and was primarily an administrative building.

I then went to one of Georgetown’s famous mansions. These mansions predate any European colonisation, and were home to Georgetown’s Chinese captains. Here captain is more akin to mob boss than anything nautical. These captains were in charge of Chinese interests in town (primarily trading based), and used these mansions to live in and run their businesses from securely. The one I visited was built around a huge ornate cast iron frame supporting an an internal courtyard and balconies looking down (interestingly the frame was actually built in and shipped from Glasgow). Off from the courtyard was as shrine/temple (a peaceful but elaborate area decorated with outstandingly carved colourful statues creating still 3D puppet shows and a golden shrine), a dinning room, the kitchens, and a whole area devoted to the staircase.. 

These captains were clearly rolling in it, the furniture was encrusted with pearls and they even had a lovely fountain in the house.

On my tour of the mansion, it turns out the Chinese integrated very well with the Malays and were much more collaborative than the European approach. The big chinese families would also own a jetty or two. Jettys here being essentially a floating street/neighbourhood with boat mooring and used for living and smuggling. These were great fun to explore, especially the non-touristy ones with actual houses that people live in over the water.

Far-ish away from the mansions I ventured to Little India, and had an incredible bamboo biryani (a biryani cooked in bamboo then served on a banana leaf) which was delicious and huge but went straight through me lol.

Then I finished my first day’s tour of Georgetown with a street art tour. Of which there were some really cool mixed medium pieces, combining items in front of the art with the wall art. Of course this street art tour was self-guided so I don’t have any interesting trivia.

The second day, I headed to one of its famous temples up on the hill. Taking a total of three funiculars to reach the top – well to the bottom of the temple. The temple was an absolute maze, but I enjoyed getting lost in the various courtyards and really appreciated their excellent plant game throughout. After various courtyards and passageways, I found huge prayer halls. With stunning columns carved with fully 3D dragons and symbols. Finally I climbed the pagoda and took in sweeping views of the city.

After a refuelling roti canai (costing me maybe 50p) I headed to the botanical gardens. Which I explored between pausing to read my book in various stunning peaceful settings, amongst the plants and the occasional monkey. 

With my zen activities for the day complete, it was time to go back to the hostel and make tracks. Once again heading off the beaten track.

Georgetown was a really cool sort of place, with a lovely sort of energy. My final note is I seized the opportunity at the hostel book swap to exchange a piece of Hindu literature (which gave me culty vibes – I’m talking about this specific author not wider Hinduism to be clear) for a highly recommended spirituality book.