Delhi – 4th of March to the 6th of March

So India is a lot. I have never seen so many people in my life, everywhere you go there are just thousands of people.

The other astonishing factor is the elaborateness of the tourist scams. Let me talk you through my first few hours in Delhi navigating one of these scams. 

So I arrived at 9:00 at the airport, got the metro to close to my hostel, and started my walk. I tried to cut across a train station as suggested by google maps.

I was stopped my someone saying I needed a ticket by the metal decectors (which are at all stations). He asked where I was going and I told him, he said due to the Holi festival to enter that area I needed a Delhi tourism pass from the Ministry of Tourism. Now this was a red flag that I missed – none of my research said anything about a Delhi tourist pass. However, traveling with myself for just short of a month now I’ve realised one in-escapable truth – I’m an idiot and shouldn’t be trusted to travel the world alone. Frequently I’ve under-prepared at my own expense (not bringing lunch into Petra, not downloading maps and languages ahead of arrival into the country etc). So I took this man at face value, he then took me to the tuk tuks and arranged for him to take me to the Ministry of Tourism, the agreed fare was ₹20 (1 rupee = 1p, so 20p) – this likely should have also been a red flag as that appears very cheap.

Now I have never felt like my life was on a knife’s edge as much as I did on this tuk tuk. We drove fast, like very fast, in and out of traffic, around buses, trucks and bikes o’plenty. Oh and did I mention we spent most of our time on the wrong side of the road. Driving into oncoming traffic. But it was all legal as my driver pretty much constantly leant on the horn.

Anyway, somehow I arrived safely. The ‘Ministry of Tourism’ was a small shop front type building which looked somewhat official. I went in and enquired about getting a delhi tourism pass. I was ushered to the office to the rear and was greeted by the boss. His immediate advice was that I should get out of Delhi that day on a flight to the crown of India (a gorgeous mountainous region to the north) because of the upcoming Holi festival where Delhi basically shuts down for three days. I tried to explain that the area he was trying to send me was one of three areas of India the FCO advice against all travel to, and if I went it would invalidate my travel insurance. High octane content on this blog I know. He quite emphatically argued he sends 10s/100s of tourists up there and its safe, repeatidly offering to call some British people who are currently there. Anyway we plot out this route through India over the next 30 days where he would essentially sort out the travel elements of the trip for me. He insisted I couldn’t book trains myself as a foreign tourist. He could sense I was skeptical and got us some tea (which was delicious) and pointed out the photos behind him where we was being awarded ‘tourism excellence awards’ from the President of India (President not Prime Minister). For someone who insisted he worked for the government, it came at a surprise when he quoted me £830 for such a service. So I said I’d have some lunch and think about it.

At this point I think it’ss worth noting, I had just flown an overnight connecting flight so only had about three hours sleep (some on a sofa in Muscat airport and some on the plane). I’m trying to speak to my mental capabilities at this time which were limited. And while we’re paused, can I also say Oman Air is a lovely airline, they fed me twice and they gave me beer! Which after 10 days in Jordan was very welcome.

Initially I went to McDonalds seeking free wifi, which I couldn’t find the password for but that marked the first McDonalds of the trip. Given its in India the veggie options are plentiful but not as good as the McPlant back home. Next I went to good old reliable Starbucks who did have free WiFi.

I got connected and started my research. I did some which suggested this could be a scam and that trains were bookable online for foreign tourists (and everyone else really). Before long the guy sitting behind me struck up a conversation and we got talking about various things but eventually my tours around India. I explained the situation and he offered his help. He ended up coming with me back to the ‘Ministry of Tourism.’ At this point I was very skeptical but also incredibly tired and not thinking brilliantly.

Once inside this is where they started to overplay their hand. The turning point for me was ‘my friend’ I just met in starbucks said “don’t think too much you’ll get confused.” He started to try and sell it as well (presumably on commission). “You’ve got to learn to trust people in India or you won’t get far” was also said. Then the final blow was when they got out the tourism awards books as additional evidence they were legit. They flicked to his page and the award was for the best travel agent – proving they weren’t government related and were in fact a scam (or at least no where near as necessary as they claimed).

I made my excuses and left.

The sheer number of people and complexity of that was mind boggling to me. While I did waste quite a few hours with this shenanigan they did give me some great advice including a rough itinerary to follow (which I’ve already deviated from significantly lol) as well steer away from where I was planning on staying in Delhi to a nicer area. So it all worked out really (and got a free cuppa).

Onto actual Delhi. As previously mentioned, the number of people and the chaotic nature of the city is mindblowing. Gone are the somewhat orderly queues of London to say the least. On the metro people pile on long before others have got off. Its very much every man, woman, dog, and cow for themselves.

I visited the Red Fort, a symbol of Indian independence from various invaders including of course the British. From the outside it looks like a decorative fortress, no doubt a practical one with high walls, a wide moat and several towers, however the battlements were beautifully curved and decorated. The second thing that struck me was its scale. The outer walls of the Red Fort measure 2.4km alone encompassing an area of 250 acres. Entry to the fort for me was ₹600 whereas for Indians it was a mere ₹50. But to be honest its £6 so who cares, although a 12x rise is steep.

Inside I was expecting the usual European dark and dingy castle set ups, however this couldn’t be further from the truth. Following a long corridor bazaar with arches housing the stalls, where today trinkets and souvenirs are sold but originally fine silks and jewels were on offer, you enter the most luscious garden complex with buildings scattered throughout. Immediately ahead you find the Naubat Khana gate where originally five times a day musicians on the first floor would serenade the complex or play to announce the arrival of royalty. Beyond that you have the Diwan-i-Aam where the Emperor would hold public court and the complaints or grievances of the people would be heard. The Emperor had an elevated marble throne decorated to the nines, beneath which on a rather plane, albeit marble, bench the Prime Minister would sit.

Originally either side of the public gallery was walled, however the British knocked that down in the 1800s….. Behind this lies the Imperial complex, or the emperor’s crib(s) where they kick up the decoration and the material budget.

The mostly red sandstone structures give way to solid white marble buildings with jeweled walls and ceilings decorated with gold and silver. All rather plush, or at least it would have been, that has all been looted since, but the marble and the painted decorations remain and are beautiful.

The north wing of the fort is then a beautiful water garden. Paths lined with spectacular trees and crossing small bridges over copious deep and shallow water ways. Unfortunately the water system is no longer used so the gullies were mainly full of leaves rather than water, but in its heyday it must have been close to paradise. I ended up staying quite a while just soaking in the nature, reading amongst the bird’s songs (while I waited for the day to cool down a bit – it was 35° that day).

Following the Red Fort I had my first bite of Indian Street food. I browsed for a while and went for the cleanest looking vendor I could find. It was ₹60 for two naan and three dishes of curry. I couldn’t tell you what curries I had (one was paneer, one was beans and one was lentils) but they were delicious. My naan was served on newspaper which was a throwback to the old chippies (fish and chip shops* and not a racial slur there).

I then headed into the LED market (the large electronics market in Delhi). The narrow streets housed 100s maybe 1000s of stands, endless phone accessory shops but also lots of actual LED shops putting on mini-light shows and audio stands selling full size speakers and the seemingly very popular karaoke machines. I found one selling mainly headphones and asked for a USB to aux adapter. He quoted me ₹200, now he might have overcharged me hugely but I’m not arguing over £2 or less – I think it was a bargain and is still working a day later so all looks good.

While Delhi has been this chaotic, loud, impolite, unclean in places and generally aggressive city, I could see myself falling in love with the country. The food alone would be enough.

A final couple of bits I’ve found funny: whenever people find out I’m British people get very excited and immediately mention / ask about Rishi Sunak. So for my time in India I am team Rishi through and through. Although of course I’m apolitical for obvious reasons.

Then finally finally, the Delhi metro ticket FAQ is one of the funniest reads – it’s so blunt. I’ll give you some highlights:

Q – can I get a return journey token?

A – No.

Q – is there any discount for students / concessions / or people with disabilities?

A – No.

Okay maybe not as funny as it was when more sleep deprived, but whatever.

So later today I’m hoping to travel to Jaipur on a train I’ve booked myself. The thing I’ve been told I couldn’t and shouldn’t do (but I do think they are trying to scam me). People online say it’s fine so we will see. If all goes wrong I’ll be in Delhi for a few more days until the festival ends. It can’t be as hard as China’s trains right? Wish me luck!

[Update] it was a scam. Trains in India are easy and so far nice. They even have tea (or chai I should say) and food services straight to your seat!